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Madfouna (Slow-Cooked Swiss Chard and Beef Stew)
An inky, deeply unctuous Jewish-Tunisian stew of beef shank, marrow, and white beans slow-cooked until the fried Swiss chard fully melts.
The story
Cherished by the historic Jewish community of Tunis (Grana and Twansa), Madfouna—meaning 'buried' in Arabic—is the quintessential Shabbat afternoon stew simmered overnight over glowing embers. The culinary foundation rests on the laborious reduction of mountains of Swiss chard fried in olive oil until black, glossy, and concentrated, a paste known as pkaila. Historically, slow-braising tough cuts of beef shank, marrow bones, and white beans into this dark savory reduction unlocks an earthy, bittersweet depth unachievable in quick cooking.
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